What is left to say about this most fêted of Moroccan cities? The great thing about Marrakesh is that, despite the hyperbole, it doesn’t disappoint. The walls are just as ochre as tradition holds, the souks as intoxicating, the palaces as intricate and impressive, and the museums as fascinating. The Jemaa el-Fna is the beating heart of the city, coming alive at night in a swirl of snake charmers, acrobats and storytellers, all eerily lit by the light of lines of fragrant charcoal braziers cooking up local delicacies (best not to ask what they are!). But Marrakesh is also a city of increasing sophistication: first-class restaurants, elegant bars and stunning riads (traditional houses coverted to luxury boutique hotels) all vie for your attention. You might hear it said that too many visitors have robbed Marrakesh of its charm, but it’s not the case: it just means the city is geared up for you, making this uniquely Moroccan experience more accessible and less stressful than it might otherwise be.