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For a long time, Oualidia was the hidden secret of in-the-know Moroccans, but the word is out now. The picture-perfect lagoon, fringed with white houses, overlooked by a crumbling kasbah, and home to delicious oysters, is a popular weekend retreat for Casablancans and Marrakechis in season. Fortunately out of season (most of the year) it is as peaceful as ever, the perfect surfing waves refracted through the rocky lagoon entrance, and just the prolific birds overhead for company.

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