Not far from the Ben Youssef medersa, on the northern edges of the souqs that spread from the Jemaa El Fna, Riad Idra is a bit different to most riads. Eschewing earthy tadlakht (smooth plaster) walls, heavy wooden doors and black metalwork, all of which can make a riad dark and overbearing, Idra instead is all about light and air. Whitewashed walls, attractive plasterwork and dashes of coloured tiles and greenery all combine to make the place feel bright and happy. In the rooms, furnishings are more classic European than traditional Moroccan and the white walls and ceilings are offset by bright fabrics. An elegant dining room serves up delicate, tasty and colourful takes on Moroccan classics: a meal here will be one of the highlights of the stay.